Vitello con Carciofo: Veal with Artichokes

It was about 8:00 pm, 10:00 pm my time, on a Tuesday night and I was in Scottsdale, Arizona. I’d only been to Scottsdale once before, when I interviewed for the job that brought me here on this October evening. I’d been driving around for about an hour getting a feel for the area and looking for a place to eat.

Sadly, nothing caught my eye. There were the usual collection of fast food joints, pizza joints, and family-style joints. But as hungry as I was, I couldn’t persuade myself to stop at any of them. I was heading back to the hotel when I noticed a little restaurant hidden in a strip mall — an Italian joint. Don’t ask me why, but I made a U-turn and stopped there — expecting the worst.

It was a tiny place with three tables in front by a bar and another 15 or so tables in back. There were, perhaps, four tables seated. The bartender greeted me and when I asked for a smoking table waved me to a table up front by the bar. Then he brought me a menu and took my drink order.

The bartender was not your typical college kid. He was a dark, well-built middle-aged man wearing a starched white shirt, a starched white apron, and a conservative tie. He had an Italian accent. So when he brought my drink I said, “Grazie.” He responded with, “Prego.”

The menu wasn’t the typical Italian-joint fare either. I asked the bartender for a recommendation and he suggested the veal scallopini with artichokes. I’ve had good veal dishes, but never in this country. The veal is usually so bland as to be tasteless. But I took him at his word and ordered it. It was excellent and, when I asked, the chef was kind enough to tell me what went in it.

Vitello con Carciofo
Serves 4.

4 ea veal scallopini (1/4 lb each)
1/2 c flour
3 ea jars marinated artichoke hearts — quartered
3 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper
1 ea lemon – juiced
1/2 c white vermouth
parsley – chopped

Lightly season both sides of scaloppini and flour lightly, shaking off excess.

Heat 2 tablespoons of artichoke marinade and olive oil over medium heat. Saute 2 veal for two minutes on each side. Do not overcook! Remove to warm dish. Add another tablespoon of marinade and repeat for 2 remaining scallopini.

Place artichokes in skillet; add extra oil if necessary, cook, stirring gently, until warmed through. Add lemon juice and wine and scrape up fond. Return veal to pan and heat everything together briefly. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately with rice or buttered noodles.

I can’t say what prompted me to stop at that little unassuming restaurant, but the impulse was a good one. Although I didn’t live in Scottsdale, the job brought me there another half a dozen times and I always made a point of eating at least one meal in what became my favorite Italian restaurant.

Try this veal with…
Potatoes Savoyarde
Sauteed Greens
French Pear Tart

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