Little Cabbages

The first time I served these at a party the hostess hesitated a moment at my suggestion. A lot of people don’t like sprouts and in this particular case her husband “hated” them. But she, like me, loved them and I persuaded her, commenting that my mother didn’t like sprouts but liked these. When I served the party I made a point of gently shaming her husband into trying them — he ate all he had.

I’ve served this recipe at several parties since and recently had a similar experience when a guest who thought he hated sprouts again ate every one on his plate. I’ve been reflecting on why this recipe is so successful and I think I’ve figured it out.

I think the key ingredient is the mustard. Mustard is from the same family as Brussels sprouts (Brassicaceae). This means they share many of the sulfur compounds that are what most people seem to find offensive in sprouts. In addition, these tiny cabbages have a bitter taste. However, mustard takes these in a different flavor direction and distracts the flavors and tastes with its spicyness. Mix the two and the flavor and taste profiles becomes more familiar and more interesting.

This is not to say the sherry vinegar isn’t critical. It brings, along with acidity, a distinct sweetness to the dish. The sweetness makes the taste profile (in addition to the flavor profile) more complex and humans are programmed by evolution to love sweet tastes. I happen to like lemon juice on sprouts with a bit of butter – but bitter/tart is decidedly astringent.

Lastly, over-cooking sprouts really brings out the sulfer compounds. So I steam them until just tender then plunge them into ice water to halt the cooking and fix the bright green color.

Brussels Sprouts Dijonaise
Serves 4 – 6.

1 lb brussels sprouts
1/2 lemon — juiced
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp coarse Dijon mustard
1 tbsp sherry vinegar (balsamic vinegar may be substituted)
salt to taste

Trim base of Brussels sprouts and pick off torn, discolored, and bug-eaten leaves. Score a shallow “x” in the stem.

Place a steamer basket in a pot, fill with water to just below the basket, add lemon juice, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-high, add sprouts, and cook until just tender — 10 – 12 minutes.

Drain water and transfer sprouts to a large bowl filled with ice water.

Melt butter in a skillet. Stir in mustard and vinegar then add sprouts. Cook, tossing to coat, until warmed through. Serve.

Try these Brussel’s sprouts with…
Rum and Cider-brined Pork Roast
Meatloaf
Kibbeh

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