Boot Licking

I love food from the Mediterranean area whether Spanish, Greek, Moroccan, French, or Italian. These cuisines all share elements in common such as the herbs, lots of garlic, lemons, olives, and olive oil and yet each cuisine manages to be distinct and even have distinct regional cuisines. The food served in toe of the boot is not the same as that served in Tuscany, which is in turn different from the Piedmont. But whatever the region, Italian food delights our senses of taste, smell, and sight. Most of the recipes below are traditionally Italian, although with my own tweaks, but whatever the recipe, they all have Italian roots.

Canapé Toppings: Although one of these recipes is based on Greek cuisine (feta, tomatoes, and basil), the other two have a decided Italian spin. One combines prosciutto and goat cheese and the other is for an artichoke tapenade — the Italians do love artichokes. Spread these on crackers, toast points, or bruschetta; open a bottle of wine; and relax.

Fettuccini Carbonara – Quixotic Quest: Fettuccini/Spaghetti Carbonara had been a favorite of mine since college when I waited tables at a restaurant where it was a specialty. Over the years I’ve made it many times using a recipe based largely on what I remembered from watching the chef fix it. Then, number of years ago, I spent a week in Italy. We rented a villa outside of Rome and used it as a home base to explore Rome and southern Tuscany. One morning we visited the ruins of the Emperor Hadrian’s Villa and afterward had a late lunch at a restaurant there. I ordered Fettuccini Carbonara. It was a revelation.

Ragu Bolognese – In the Flesh: Ragu Bolognese is the fundamental recipe behind meat and tomato sauces. But comparing the slow-cooked, handmade version with what most of us experience is like comparing a Rolls Royce with a Yugo — yeah, they’re both cars, but riding in a Rolls is completely different from riding in a Yugo. And eating this wonderful sauce on pasta is much closer to the Rolls experience than the Yugo.

Braciole – Harvesting Ideas: Braciole is not a particularly complicated or elegant dish. It’s simply a piece of meat — most often beef or veal and sometimes pork — wrapped around a stuffing and then braised. Sometimes it’s made using scaloppini in individual portions and sometimes it’s prepared as a large roast. But however you do it, you wind up with tender meat and the most luscious sauce imaginable.

Osso Bucco – Hole in the Bone: It had been at least 20 years since I last made or had osso bucco, literally “hole bone.” The name refers to the circlet of bone in the center of each section of cross-cut shank. After cooking, the marrow in the center of the bone falls out or is scooped out leaving a circlet of bone — a bone with a hole. Historically the dish is from Milan and was veal braised with white wine, cinnamon, allspice, and bay. My version is less historical but is still based on Italian recipes.

Milk-braised Pork – Simple, Strange, Delicious: Perhaps it’s just me, but braising pork in milk seemed like a strange idea to me. It is also such a simple recipe that (pork, milk, garlic, and salt and pepper) that I wondered how much flavor it would have. But Doc Biggles at Meathenge has never steered me wrong, and I did want something new so I decided to give it a shot. This has since become one of my all-time favorite recipes.

Chicken Picatta – And All that Jazz:I’ve been trying, but for the life of me I can’t remember when I first had Chicken Picata nor where. But it seems like it’s been a standard in my recipe repertoire forever. It quick and easy, has tremendous flavor complexity. It’s also the most popular recipe I’ve ever posted. Also, I usually have everything I need on hand (I’ve usually got two or three chicken breasts in the freezer) so I’ll thaw the breast in hot water (this is safe for a small piece of meat that’s then immediately cooked), pound it flat, and 45 minutes after pulling the chicken out of the freezer I’m eating.

Saltimbocca – Jump in the Mouth: Saltimbocca is an Italian word meaning “jump in the mouth” and is the name of a Roman dish classically made with veal, prosciutto, and sage. It’s also sometimes made with chicken or pork and cheese is a frequent addition. I have trouble finding good veal so I usually use chicken, but either is great. Garnish the dish with a couple of fried sage leaves.

Green Beans with Anchovies – Umami, Whoa-o: The Italians love anchovies. For that matter, they’re beloved around the Med. Anchovies are high in umami, the fifth taste, the savory taste. Whether pack in oil or salt, Mediterranean anchovies aren’t as fishy as the American version, but that easy to deal with, cut back a bit. The purpose of anchovies isn’t so much to add flavor as to enhance existing savory flavors and these wee, little fishies do that beautifully. These beans also feature olive oil, garlic, and pancetta — they’re way good.

Potatoes Parmigiano – Simple Perfection: I was at the farmers’ market and stopped at stall where a fellow was selling potatoes. Aside from the fact he had all his teeth, he was the epitome of a hillbilly. Long and lanky with a long gray beard that would make ZZ Top envious, he completed the picture by wearing overalls. He also had some of the prettiest little Yukon Golds I’ve ever seen. Although, I came up with this recipe from scratch, it certainly tastes Italian to me.

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