Just Ducky

As I mentioned earlier (Duck with Peach Gastrique) I received a couple of free duck breasts a month or so ago. In a couple of years Hudson Valley Foie Gras will be the last remaining domestic producer of foie gras because the other producer was in California and that state has outlawed gavage — the practice of over-feeding ducks and geese to produce enlarged livers.

A couple of years back I did a fair bit of research into the practice. Typically a tube, attached to a funnel, is inserted down the birds’ throats and then filled with grain. This gets much more food into their stomachs than they can (or would) eat on their own. As with any practice, it can be done badly and if so make the birds miserable. But first, poultry doesn’t chew food so by-passing the mouth isn’t a problem the way cramming a whole steak into your stomach would be. Second, ducks don’t have a gag reflex so again, and unlike you, the tube isn’t a problem. Third, yes, over-feeding isn’t good for their health, but then neither is killing them so we can have a duck dinner good for their health. Lastly, when gavage is done properly and gently the birds will gather round the feeder to wait their turn — not the typical reaction of an abused animal.

The wackos at PETA are using gavage as a red herring to stir up opinion. And I call it a red herring because if they were really concerned they’d be focused on the real abuse of poultry by Big Ag in the persona of Tyson Foods and Cargill that raise chickens in truly horrible circumstances. As a friend of mine who raises lambs commented about his animals: “They have a perfect life — until that last day.” By most reports, so do the Hudson Valley ducks.

Duck Crepes
Serves 4.

2 12-oz or 4 6-oz duck breasts
Salt and pepper
8 oz assorted mushrooms — sliced
1 shallot — sliced thinly
1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp tomato paste
1/3 c Vermouth
1/3 c duck broth or chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
8 crepes

Pan-roast duck breasts as in this recipe. Cool and peel off the skin. Cut breast into strips.

Return the skin, fat-side (inside) down, to the skillet and weight down to prevent curling. Place over low heat and cook until crispy — about 5 minutes. Drain and dice.

Pour out all but a tablespoon of the fat in the skillet (but save the fat for other uses like fried potatoes). Add mushrooms, sprinkle with salt, and sauté over medium-high heat until browned. Add shallots, lemon juice, thyme, and tomato paste and cook 1 minute longer, stirring three or four times.

Add Vermouth and reduce by half. Add broth and reduce liquid by half. Add cream and duck and heat thoroughly.

Place two crepes on each plate, then spoon duck mixture down the center. Roll crêpe and turn overlap-side down. Spoon more of the mixture over the crepes and garnish with diced skin.

Try these duck crepes with…
Slow-roasted Tomatoes
Mediterranean Beet Salad
French Pear Tart

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