Umami, Whoa-o; Umami, Whoa-o-O-o

The Romans invented fish sauce, which is not say it wasn’t also invented in Asia, but the Romans had their own version named garum that was made from anchovies — a fish found in great numbers (at one time, anyway) in the Mediterranean Sea.

Most of us are familiar with the canned anchovies sold at the grocery store, but in Spain (and probably all around the Mediterranean) you can find fresh anchovies as well as fresh sardines grilled over wood fires at little roadside stands near the beach. This was another of those things I wanted to try while I was in Spain but was vetoed on. (When there are seven or eight people in a van and only one wants to stop and try something that one is doomed to disappointment).

But I’d ready discovered the wonders of anchovies a few years before – albeit the pasted variety. I don’t recall what I purchased the anchovy paste for, but something prompted me to add it to a marinara sauce and it produced a much richer, more savory sauce. In fact, I was amazed at the difference a teaspoon of paste made. But why did it make such a difference?

It turns out anchovies are naturally high in glutamates — the chemical that tickles our umami taste buds (umami is the fifth taste after sweet, salty, sour, and bitter). Further, the process of preserving anchovies concentrates and enhances the glutamates, which seem to have a greater effect when paired with salt. Consequently adding anchovies (in some form) to a dish makes it more savory. And you don’t even have to add enough to be able to taste the anchovies, in fact the flavor of anchovy paste detracts from my marinara sauce. All I want is the taste.

Discovery made, I started experimenting with anchovies in different forms with different dishes and among my experiments I found that anchovies really enhance green vegetables — especially when those vegetables are paired with meat. For instance, here in the South collard and turnip greens as well as green beans are frequently cooked in a broth containing either country ham or a ham hock. Add some anchovy and the greens will leap at your mouth.

A few days ago I bought some broad beans and decided to adapt an Italian recipe I had for broccoli rabe to the beans. It turned out to be a great idea (even better than the original recipe) and, as I write this, I’m planning to do it again provided I can find broad beans again.

Green Beans with Anchovies
Serves 4.

1 lb green beans — trimmed of stem end and broken or cut into 1 1/2″ pieces
2 oz. pancetta — cut into 1/4 inch dice
2 garlic cloves — sliced thinly
3 anchovy filets — rinsed and minced
1 tbsp olive oil
Salt to taste

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add beans and cook until just tender — about 7 minutes. Drain beans in a colander and douse in cold water to stop cooking and fix their color.

Add olive oil, garlic, pancetta, and anchovy to a skillet, stirring to coat ingredients with oil, and place over medium low heat. Cook until garlic turns golden, stirring occasionally. Increase heat to medium high, add beans, and quickly sauté the beans, stirring frequently, for 2 – 3 minutes or until beans are hot. Season with salt and serve.

Note: In this recipe you will have a faint taste of anchovy. But try it, you’ll like it.

Try these beans with…
Greek Meatloaf
Roast Beef
Tuscan Chicken

Technorati: Food | recipe | kevin d weeks | seriously good | beans | side dish

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