Cook Bashing

In 1994 some 30-odd dedicated foodies gathered in Charleston, South Carolina for a Cooks Bash. We knew each other from the COOKS forum on Compuserve and we assembled for a long weekend to eat and talk about food and cooking. Few of us had ever met in person and yet people flew in from London, Amsterdam, and the West Coast to meet folks they’d been exchanging forum messages with for years.

It was a grand event, except for my lamentable introduction to wasabi (which everyone else seemed to enjoy), and one marriage engagement was announced and another ensued. Sadly, neither marriage worked out — but less intimate and far deeper bonds formed that weekend. The event was such a success that a group of those

There is a communication of more than our bodies when bread is broken and wine is drunk. And that is my answer when people ask me: Why do you write about hunger, and not wars or love. ~ MFK Fisher.

original attendees and a few new-comers are planning to meet for a seventh Bash in Houston in November.

Following Charleston we gathered in Monterrey, California; New Orleans; Santa Fe, New Mexico; the California wine country; and Atlanta, Georgia. We focused on places that offered excellent regional cuisine — and that would be fun to visit between meals. Sadly, Houston may be the last Bash.

It’s been 12 years since the first. None of us have grown younger — despite our best efforts. And life has intruded — as it’s wont to do. In fact, I wouldn’t be attending this Bash if one of my “cooking buddies” hadn’t bought me a plane ticket. I fear it may be our last bash. I think she suspects the same.

With two exceptions in the past we’ve always eaten at restaurants. But for this event, I and a couple of others are preparing a meal. A fancy meal. A banquet. Cooking a meal worthy of this event for such knowledgable and critical food analysts should be daunting. And it is. But it’s also irresistible.

We’ve only begun planning the menu, but the entrée will be stuffed leg of lamb. I think the first course will be this bisque, which was inspired by a similar bisque I had at a restaurant in Detroit at one of my brothers’ weddings.

Mushroom Bisque

1/2 lb button mushrooms – sliced
1/2 lb shitake mushrooms – sliced
1/2 lb small portabella mushrooms – sliced
2 oz dried porcini mushrooms
3 tbsp olive oil
salt to taste
1 tsp Herbes de Provence
2 tbsp butter
3 ea shallots – sliced
1/2 c white wine
1/2 c beef or chicken broth (may need more)
1 c heavy cream
fresh chives – chopped (for garnish)
crème fraiche or sour cream (for garnish)

Bring 1 cup water to a boil then pour over dried mushrooms. Allow to rehydrate for 15 minutes. Pour through a fine strainer to filter out any dirt. Reserving the liquid.

Add fresh mushrooms to a large skillet over medium-high heat and sprinkle with salt. Cook, turning over frequently with a spatula, until mushrooms begin to give up their liquid. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with Fines Herbes. Continue cooking and stirring until mushrooms have given up most of their liquid. Add shallots, rehydrated porcini, and butter and cook until you can smell the shallots.

Add the white wine to the skillet and reduce to about three tablespoons. Add beef or chicken broth and liquid from rehydrated porcini. Cook about five minutes.

Pour mushroom mixture into a blender and puree. Add cream and mix. Add additional stock if needed to achieve desired consistency. Serve with a splash of dry sherry and topped with a spoon full of crème fraiche or sour cream sprinkled with chives.

There are still hors d’oeuvres, side dishes, and desserts to come up with. The research continues.

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