The Other Red Meat

Cruising at around 15km/hr and capable of bursts of speed up to 70km/hr, tuna are one of the fastest fish in the ocean. Their torpedo shape is highly adapted to minimize drag and at high speed their fins fit into slots along their bodies to further reduce drag. But reducing drag only gets you so far without equally sophisticated propulsion. A propulsion system tuna share with mako sharks.

“Most fish move their tails by sending a wave of contraction along the length of the body. But this contraction must be limited in its power because each movement of the tail involves bending much of the fish’s body. … In tunas and makos, muscle mass is concentrated at the centre of the body and linked to the tail via long tendons. In other fish, the muscle is arranged in blocks along the body attached to the vertebral column, which corresponds with their style of swimming.” — Paul Rincon, “BBC News”

So why would this matter to a cook?

A steady15km/hr pace requires a lot of muscle and the unique anatomy means that muscle is arranged similarly to the tenderloin found in beef and pork and like that cut is perfect for steaks. And, because this muscle is used for constant movement, it is high in myoblobin, which accounts for its red color.

Given tuna’s similarity to tenderloin, it’s not surprising that it’s sometimes treated like tenderloin. This recipe, which appeared in Jacques Pepin’s Table: The Complete Today’s Gourmet, is one of my favorites. A takeoff on the classic French Steak au Poivre, the peppercorns really highlight the sweetness of the tuna flesh.

Tuna Steaks with Peppercorns

4 ea tuna steaks — 1″ thick
1/2 tsp white peppercorns
1/2 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp allspice berries
1 tbsp corn oil
1/2 tsp salt

Brush both sides of the steaks with oil. Crush the peppercorns with a meat mallet and then sprinkle with crushed peppercorns and salt.

Heat a cast iron skillet until very hot. Add steaks and cook for 1 1/2 minutes, turn over and cook another 1 1/2 minutes. Cover skillet, remove from heat, and let stand for 3 to 5 minutes. The steaks will continue to cook and, depending on their thickness, will be medium rare to medium. Serves 4.

Technorati: Food | recipe | main dish | fish | tuna

One Response to “Tuna au Poivre”