Noshing in New Orleans

New Orleans is, perhaps, my favorite American city. I’ve been there for both business and pleasure, but in truth, visiting New Orleans is always a pleasure — whatever the excuse for the trip. I’ve had wonderful meals there from muffaletta’s at a lunch counter with a cold beer and oil running down my face into my beard to a superb 10 course tasting menu that would have been at home in Paris or San Francisco.

But whatever the style of cooking, to me New Orleans food is typified by boldness. It’s brass band food, not symphony orchestra. And we’re talking Marine Corps quality brass band. It’s sassy and snappy. It makes you pay attention to it. It’s honor among thieves and food that takes no prisoners.

This month’s Paper Chef competition asked cooks from around the world to combine beer, shrimp, sausage, and tomatoes in a dish to honor New Orleans and support hurricane relief. This month I was the judge.

Before I name the winner, I have a couple of special awards. The first award is for, “Brass Band Bold” and goes to June of June’s Blog. She’s a young “Indonesian girl stranded far far away from her home country without the support of delicious food,” And, apparently, teaching herself to cook. She doesn’t even like tomatoes, but included them anyway.

The second award is for the “Blog I Most Wanted to Eat.” Shauna’s entry at Gluten-Free Girl had me drooling not so much over the red beans and rice (which is not to demean the excellent recipe she posted) as over the delightful and compelling writing.

As for the Paper Chef award, I looked first for the inclusion of all the ingredients (or reasonable facsimiles). Second, I looked for a recipe that showed the food-that-hurts spirit of New Orleans. And last, I looked for something I’d order from a restaurant menu.

Stephen’s Shrimp Po Boy at What’s for Dinner achieved all three criteria with delightful aplomp. I want two, one for now and one for later. And a couple of bottles of local NO beer. And a Jackson Square park bench to eat it on.

Thanks to everyone for their entries. I’m just glad they weren’t all really on a menu I had to choose from ’cause the joint would have closed before I could decide.

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