Middle Eastern Memories

Sitting on our screened porch, we saw the crash coming. The wheel wobbled further and further out of plumb until it came off the axel with a crash bringing the cart, donkey, and the boy leading it to a halt and spilling hundreds of round loaves of pita bread across the street.

The boy picked up the loaves, dusted off the dirt and dung, and piled them by the cart while a couple of passersby got the wheel back on. Then the spilled loaves went back in the cart and the boy went on his way with many a maleesh and in’sha’Allah.

This was in 1970 and my family was living in Egypt at the time. Although most of the meals prepared by our French-trained Egyptian cook were European in style, he also fixed local specialties and so we became familiar with the flavors of tumeric and cardamom with garlic pervading everything.

Dr. Biggles of Meathenge recently sent me a copy of Diana Abu-Jaber’s memoir, The Language of Baklava. It’s one of those memoirs that’s permeated with food and punctuated with recipes. Her father had immigrated to the US from Jordan and he cooked to remind himself of home and to teach his children their Jordanian heritage. As you might imagine, the book struck a particular chord with me and I found my mouth watering as I read. So I made koftas.

I remember eating them in Egpyt but I don’t particularly remember what they tasted like, so these stood on their own. I’d planned on having couscous with them but discovered I was out so I made a rice pilaf with dried figs and apricots in chicken broth.

Koftas

1 lb ground lamb
1 ea egg — lightly beaten
1 ea sm onion — finely chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chili powder
2 tsp tumeric
1/2 tsp ground allspice
salt and pepper

Mix all ingredients together by hand until thoroughly mixed.

Shape 1/4 cup of mixture around a skewer to form a flattened sausage shape three to four inches long. Then grill over hot coals for about five minutes per side.

Serve topped with yogurt mixed with lemon juice and crushed garlic.

Thanks again for the book, Doc!

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