Thursday, March 18, 2010

Soufffle: Step by Step

A Soufflé Tutorial

Souffle

This coming Sunday I'm teaching a private class on making souffles. I'm looking forward to it. I love souffles as much for their transformation from a wet pudding to a lofty "cake" as for their wonderfully ethereal flavor. A couple of years ago, when I first started writing for Cooking for Two, I created this photo tutorial as well as a set of tips for making soufflés.

Tutorial here...
Tips here...
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Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Wordless Wednesday

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Guinness and Chocolate Cake

A Treat for Saint Patrick

Guinness and Chocolate Cake

Chocolate? Eh, it's ok but if I had to go the rest of my life without tasting chocolate I wouldn't even miss it. This is not to say I don't like chocolate on occasion and my favorite non-fruit-based dessert is brownies. I've even discovered the pleasures of a small piece of excellent bitter -sweet chocolate with a glass of red wine or beer as a light dessert. Even so, the last 4 oz bar I bought still has an ounce left and has been sitting in my pantry for at least four or five months.

It doesn't surprise me that chocolate is a good match for zinfandel or pinot noir, they contain some related compounds and the tannin in the wine complements the bitterness of the chocolate. What did surprise me when I discovered it was how good beer can be with chocolate — particularly a dark beer such as a porter or stout. Having made this discovery, I wasn't particularly surprised by the recipes I kept running across for Guinness and Chocolate Cake.

It doesn't surprise me that chocolate is a good match for zinfandel or pinot noir, they contain some related compounds and the tannin in the wine complements the bitterness of the chocolate.


Nevertheless, aside from bread I'm not much of a baker and as I said I'm not a chocolate fan. But I wrote an article on cooking with beer last summer and when I write articles focusing on an ingredient I like to feature it in a range of course to give readers an idea of how flexible most ingredients are and I wanted a beer dessert.

I could have done a beer-batter fried apple rings - which sounds really good - or a beer ice cream (another popular option), but I decided to do the cake. There are loads of recipes on the web most of which differ primarily in whether the ingredients are listed in European or American quantities. So I picked one and made it. Four tries later I'd made four delicious cakes all of whose centers fell somewhat. I finally gave up, the cake is just too moist. So I trimmed off the top and made extra icing to fill the dip left. By the way, those pieces you trim off the top? Dip them in Guinness.

Guinness and Chocolate Cake

Cake:

1 cup Guinness (or other stout)
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
3/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder*
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda (make sure it's less than 6 months old for maximum leavening power)
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
2/3 cup sour cream
Icing:
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch springform pan, place a round of parchment paper on the bottom and butter it, then flour the pan.

Cake:
Place the stout and butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Whisk in cocoa powder until mixture is smooth.

Thoroughly combine flour, sugar, baking soda and salt in large bowl. In another bowl, beat together the eggs and sour cream until well blended. Add stout-chocolate mixture to egg mixture and beat just to combine. Add flour mixture and beat briefly on slow speed.

Finish mixing by folding batter with a spatula until completely combined. Pour batter in the springform pan and bake cake until a toothpick inserted into center of cakes comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Place cake on a rack and cool for 10 minutes, then remove the sides of the pan and cool completely.

Icing:
Beat together the cream cheese and sugar. Add cream and vanilla and mix. Spread icing on top of cake to echo the appearance of a glass of Guinness and its head of foam.


*Dutch-process cocoa is acid neutral, if you use something like Hershey's cocoa (which is acid) the cake may not rise properly.

Try Guinness and Chocolate Cake with...
Corned Beef and Cabbage
Steak and Guinness Pie
Shepherds' Pie


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Monday, March 15, 2010

SG Archive:
Corned Beef and Cabbage

A Day without Sunshine

Corned Beef

The sun didn't come up yesterday. Or, if it did, I didn't see it. The weather was darkly overcast — the sky a rag of gray flannel stretching from barren treetop to dreary hillside. The wind was cold and gusting, hurling flourishes of rain and ice. It was the epitome of an East Tennessee January day with no color to provide visual warmth or snow to add romance. It was just plain cold and nasty.

There's only one way to deal with a day like that — cook. And I knew just what I wanted.

One of these days I'm going to think of having corned beef long enough in advance to try corning my own brisket. But not this day. A quick trip to the store garnered a three pound packaged corned beef, some potatoes, turnips, carrots, and cabbage.

It was the epitome of an East Tennessee January day with no color to provide visual warmth or snow to add romance.

Back at the house I made a mug of cocoa, rinsed the brisket, and dumped it in my Dutch oven with assorted pickling spices and beer. It went on the stove until it simmered and then into the oven to slowly braise though the afternoon. Filling the house with a thick blanket of savory scent to ward heart and soul against the whisperings of wind and sleet.

Corned Beef and Cabbage
Serves 6 - 8.


1 3 - 4 lb corned beef brisket — trimmed of visible fat
1 bottle of beer
2 tsp mustard seed
2 tsp coriander seed
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp dill seed
1 tsp whole allspice
1 tsp juniper berries
1 bay leaf
3 carrots — peeled and cut into 1" lengths
2 lg. onions — cut into quarters
1/2 head cabbage — cut into quarters
3 lg. turnips — quartered
3 lg. waxy potatoes — cut in half

Heat oven to 325F.

Rinse corned beef and place in a large dutch oven. Add beer, 1 carrot, 1 onion, and all spices. Add enough water to barely cover brisket. Place over medium heat and bring to a vigorous simmer. Cover and place on lower-middle rack in oven.

Cook 1 hour, turn brisket over, and add enough additional water (if needed) to bring level half-way up meat. Repeat 1 hour later.

After 3 hours, remove from oven and remove brisket from broth and set on a plate. Strain out carrots and onions and discard. Add all remaining vegetables, place on stove over medium-low heat, cover, and cook for half an hour or until vegetables are fork tender. Remove from heat.

Slice brisket across the grain and add it back to vegetable mixture to warm up.

I like to serve this with a collection of mustards: Dijon, Polish, honey-mustard, whatever. Then I'll smear one slice of meat with Dijon, another with honey-mustard, and a potato with Polish. The various mustards give each bite a unique flavor.

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Friday, March 12, 2010

Feeling Cheesy

Feeling Cheesy

Saganaki

Cheese is one of my favorite foods. I can't get out of the local cheese store without spending $25 - $30, and that's snacking cheese. Just for the hell of it I did a count on SG and lost track at 45 recipes that include cheese. Sometimes the cheese is a main ingredient as in Welsh Rabbit, at other times it's a secondary ingredients as in Potato/Carrot Gratin. But whatever its role, cheese appears in appetizers, main dishes, breakfasts, and desserts. In this collection of recipes cheese is a key ingredient if not the main ingredient.

Peppers Stuffed with Feta: This recipe is one of my workhorses. They're good hot, room-temp, and even cold. They can be made a day in advance then baked just before serving. They're bright and colorful, making a great presentation. Depending on what you're serving them with, you can swap goat cheese for the feta to cut down on the saltiness and add more tartness. And changing up the herbs is always fair game.

Cheese Quick Bread: This is perhaps my favorite soup bread. It goes with all kinds of soups from Ciopino to Senate Bean Soup to Tomato Bisque to… well, it really goes with everything. And while it's not a last minute affair (it does need to cook for almost and hour and cool for nearly as long) it's faster than a yeast bread. It also makes great toast for breakfast and if you fry a couple of eggs over easy and slide them on then you're going to find mythological figures dropping in for breakfast.

Welsh Rabbit: I've loved Welsh Rabbit since I first had it at Chowning's Tavern in Colonial Williamsburg at age 10. I tried Chowning's rabbit again when was I there back in 2000 and it was exactly as I remembered for 30 years before. And delicious, but since then I've developed my own recipe and I like it better. Mine is a bit thicker even though it doesn't include either corn starch or eggs and it can go wrong. But it's pure cheesy goodness.

Veal with Feta Sauce - Rarified Circles: A few years back I did several cooking shows on local TV. I never got any business out of the effort - and it was an effort - so I haven't repeated it. It wasn't as though the TV station was going to pay me and without a sponsor it was a freebie. In fact, I had to buy the food and the people at the station ate it. The last show I did was a veal dish and I had veal cutlets left over, so when I got home I came up with this dish.

Cheshire Quiche: A friend of mine, Q Correll, developed this recipe. Onions, bacon, eggs, cream, and cheese is about as standard as you can get — except the cheese, good English Cheshire, produces an extraordinarily light quiche. I've no idea why. Q has no idea why. Nobody I've ever talked to has any idea why. But instead of the usual somewhat heavy custard one finds in most quiches this one almost floats through your mouth and down your gullet

Potato/Carrot Gratin: Orange and white are the colors of the University of Tennessee, Knoxville's home team. Personally I detest football and as a rule avoid anything orange and white because I don't want people getting the wrong idea. But this is so good with its layers of potatoes, carrots, herbs, and gruyere that I make an exception. You can make up the gratin a day in advance and refrigerate it, then pull it out and cook it the next day so it's a great party dish.

Strawberry Cheese: I came up with this recipe years ago for a Paper Chef contest entry. It features mascarpone and ricotta, lightly sweetened. This is served in an almond tuile and topped with a coarse strawberry puree flavored with Amaretto. Very elegant, very good and, except for the tuiles, very easy.

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Thursday, March 11, 2010

Tip: Mise en Place

When the Food Network first started I was addicted to it. Way back then it was a serious cooking channel with real chefs demonstrating real techniques. I even learned a few things — one of them being the importance of mise en place.

Mise en place (pronounced "meez on ploss" often simply called "meez" in American restaurants) is a French term meaning, "putting in place," and it refers to having all your ingredients lined up and waiting to be used.

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